Firstly, the bellhousing hits the floorpan. It is almost cylindrical, roughly the same diameter at the back as at the front. The tunnel was widened by a good two inches (with a large hammer, but fairly skillfully!) to fit it in.

Also, the tilt of the box to clear the RR front driveshaft makes the selector mechanism foul, so further clearance creating is needed further back. The bulge was cut from the bottom of the sump pan as this would have almost touched the road, and it was made flush with the higher under-surface. This meant shortening the pickup pipe on the internal filter to suit.

The external oil cooler pipes needed some modification to clear various things as well. A 23-row cooler about 12 inches wide was used, as sold by many aftermarket competition suppliers. It seems to be adequate, at least in a British climate, and has slightly more area than the RR one.

The tailhousing is a bit of a mystery, found in a pile of junk at J.E Engineering with an unknown history. It may be a special one-off, having an SD1 type flange, but a Jaguar or Volvo one could possibly be used, presenting slightly different problems from those seen here. The whole assembly is about nine inches longer than the standard SD1 setup, so the propshaft needed to be shortened. Whatever tailhousing is used, the yoke mounting is going to be a lot further back than standard. A rear bracket was fabricated for the tailhousing to take the standard SD1 manual rubbers, and the appropriate yoke used to suit.

This of course was nine inches further back, so mounting points on the body were fabricated to suit as well! This is not for the faint-hearted or those with little engineering skill, as obviously strength and safety are very important considerations. All these changes obviously meant modifications to the exhaust system to clear. This one was (surprise..) non-standard anyway, so we can't offer much insight into the problems with a standard one. Basically the Y-piece joint needs to be moved back to the same position relative to the yoke. This doesn't seem to affect the performance significantly.

The gearshift linkage was a modified SD1 pushrod type. The RR cable one may have been better, but the lever housing won't fit and is too complex, having high and low transfer select functions as well. A better job could probably have been done, but the parts were not easily available or justifiably priced. The SD1 lever housing needs attention, as the pushrod is on the wrong side and there are only three (forward) gear positions.

Since the car uses EFI and the gearbox is also electronic, there is no downshift (kickdown) cable, so we didn't have to consider those problems. All that was necessary was to arrange communication between the two systems, which was easy since almost all the software was written in-house.

	Here are a couple of views of the gearbox as installed in the car. Some better pictures were taken, but they seem to have disappeared into the mayhem that is the Stunned Buffalo office! Note the gearbox crossmember several inches rearward of its original position, and the consequently stretched exhaust downpipes and shrunken 'Y' piece to clear it. The shiny cover over the entire box is a stainless steel scuffguard, which was later declared unnecessary and removed. Better photos will be published if and when they reappear!
	This is the in-house designed and built gearbox ECU. It is based on the PIC-16 Microcontroller and has proven reliable so far...
	The Gearbox Status Display built into the Tachometer. In use, all six lights are never on at once, but they are all shown here for clarity. The four green LEDs in the middle row show gears 1,2,3 and 4 selected respectively, while the top and bottom red ones in combination with those indicate various other conditions like Park, Neutral or Reverse. The LED at the top near the 5000RPM line is a programmable ultra-bright blue shift light also controlled by the gearbox ECU.